THE ZOO
AMBER CLASSICO MODERN
2021
PERFUMER
Christophe Laudamiel
Orchid
Peru Balsam
Spanish Labdanum
Musk
Mandarin Orange
Benzoin
Geranium
Patchouli
THOUGHTS
Straight from the opening, Amber Classico Modern is one of the most interesting takes on amber that I’ve come across in a while.
This is not your average amber accord, but a fresher, brighter one, while being extremely balmy and resinous. It is sweet, in a gelatin ‘foam’ candy way; marshmellow, but with a sour tinge from the mandarin. At times it feels almost sparkling like a lemonade as well, making for some intresting contrast in the texture.
In the opening hour Amber Classico Modern reminds me of a perfect mix between the more common sweet ambers and the the bubblegummy realistc treesap ambers (for example Rook Amber). As it dries down it goes more into the custardy vanilla akin to something you find in the Shalimar DNA. It grows more towards that style of amber (which also reminds me of Musc Ravageur), but it keeps that balmy, candle-like orange.
Patchouli seems to play a big factor in the composition, as there’s a slightly muddied, dry earthiness underneath it all. Yet, the entire composition feels light and airy, so the patchouli doesn’t weigh down on me as that note can often do.
I tried Tubereuse Organique the same week and loved it, but Amber Classico Modern overtakes it as my favorite Laudamiel work that I’ve tried so far.